Who is Heller?

By: While this text is about surfing, it also reveals a lot about the person who wrote it. What does this reading tell you about Peter Heller? Why is he so fascinated with surfing? What does his approach to depicting surfing reveal about who he is as a person?

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  1. AnonymousJanuary 2, 2018 at 6:11 PM

    Peter Heller is a character who does not give up on his dreams no matter how hard it is to achieve them. In the beginning of the book, Heller attempts to surf and realizes how difficult it is to fit in and be apart of the surfing culture. When he and Andy decided to go to surf school, it was very helpful for the both of them to learn how to surf and get a better understanding of the way surfers act, speak, and their motions. He is so fascinated with surfing because he says " we need surf... because it reconnects us with our animal bodies (26)" which means he gets to feel connected to the world and his surroundings as if they were one. His approach to depicting surfing reveals that he understands what is reality and what is a fantasy since he listed the eight main things that are assumed in surfing.

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  2. AnonymousJanuary 3, 2018 at 11:09 AM

    Peter Heller is a person and character that seems to be stubborn but persistent. Throughout the beginning of the novel, Heller is excited and determined to learn how to surf. Following his many failures to learn, he seems as if it brings his spirits down to a point where he feels like he wants to quit. But with that Heller continues to surf because of not only his stubborn personality, but because he is looking for an escape in surfing. I believe that this is why Heller was so invested and fascinated with surfing because this is where he feels like he can escape from the concept of getting older. Along with that, it seems like this fascination of surfing is because surfing gives him something to strive for and something that he needs to work on to be good at. Eventually, it becomes an obsession of his and brings him to the current point in the novel.

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