Surf school

By: What are some specific kinds of tacit knowledge that Heller attempts to gain in this reading by going to surf school? What are some of the essential skills for surfers that can only be acquired by practice and experience? How easy or difficult is it to acquire these skills? What does that tell you about the barrier to entry for surfing culture--how easy or difficult is it for newcomers to join the community?

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  1. AnonymousJanuary 1, 2018 at 12:57 PM

    I think some of the knowledge you learn is that surfing isn't easy, despite looking so simple. It seems the way you get good at surfing is by learning the basics fundamentals of surfing, then refine them. It's the reason why Heller sees people surfing and doing the same repeated motions, but refining them for years and years and years. It is incredibly easy to acquire these skills, as Heller took lessons for a week and was able to ride waves, but the skill ceiling is incredibly high for surfing. With the exception of the Saint, veteran surfers don't want new blood in their sport; thus, it is really hard to truly get into surfing. Heller was just incredibly lucky, and met the right person at the right time. He even says that if he hadn't, he would have quit surfing.

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  2. AnonymousJanuary 1, 2018 at 6:08 PM

    From the beginning of his story, Heller sees that it isn't easy to enter the surfer community. He also stated that he and Andy should have taken lessons from the start, but it's never too late! Or is it? This is what Heller ponders, and its also what drives him to attend surf school. He states, "It always seemed to me that if you wanted to learn something athletic, learn it from an athlete. French from a Frenchman, carpentry from a carpenter." (p.32). Obviously, the skills that he must learn are physical. For example, keeping your chest up, eyes ahead, and hands in a pushup position. There were also the eight commands of paddle forward, paddle back, slide forward, slide back, chest up, chest down, then up. There is also an emotional skill of surfing that he must learn, which is being more casual about being able to actually surf. He sees the professional surfers hitting a wave and acting like its no big deal, yet he becomes ecstatic. Although this is completely understandable, this is what makes him a kook. Both physical and emotional aspects of surfing act as major barriers into the community; some can be taught, and some must be acquired.

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